AL FORNO,

A recent recipient of GQ magazine's "Golden Plate Award," Al Forno continues to please. The delightful menu changes nightly, and featured wood-grilled pizza with pumpkin and three cheeses ($11.95) on our last visit. The vegetarian antipasto ($7.95) was particularly intriguing, with Tuscan bean puree, spiced olives, caramelized garlic, grilled onions, a wedge of frittata and a portion of stewed tomatoes. We recommend the lasagnette with fresh rapini in a garlic sauce ($12.95) or the pepper-grilled chicken paillard ($12.95). But leave room for the chef's made-to-order desserts.